Installing a Haltech onto a 2TG

Step 1: purchase the Haltech.
I opted to buy a loom with my Haltech, although not a mandatory thing, my time is very precious and it was worth spending a bit more $$ to save hours of extra wiring.

Step 2: mounting the Haltech.
You will need to find a suitable mounting place for your Haltech. As room behind the dash is very limited I opted to mount the Haltech under the parcel shelf in the passenger foot well. Once this is mounted you can start running the wires to the respective side of the engine bay.

Step 3: wiring.
This should be fairly self explanatory following the wiring diagrams supplied with the ECU. There are however several things that need to be considered and modified in order to complete this step.

TPS (Throttle Position Sensor)
The TPS will need to be changed as the factory one will not work with the Haltech. The Haltech TPS will fit onto the throttle body easily but will require a custom mounting plate to secure it.

The dizzy/timing
There are several options that can be taken. Build an electronic ignition dizzy, source a factory electronic dizzy or make a custom Hall Effect crank shaft sensor. 1. Build a dizzy. See this article for more details http://toymods.net/forums/showthread.php?t=10172&highlight=18r+electronic+ignition

2. Source a factory Electronic dizzy Luckily my motor came with electronic ignition. In order to use this with the Haltech it will require some modification. You will need to remove the weights to stop the dizzy from mechanically advancing. Secondly you will need to remove the internal ignighter. Then all that's left to do is run a wire from the reluctor to the trigger input for the Haltech. Note in this configuration you are limited to batch firing the igniters. To gain more efficiency from your engine I recommend using the set up outlined in step 3.

3. Make a custom Hall Effect Sensor.

This is the most costly and tricky of the ignition set-ups. Using a Haltech S3 or S4 sensor you will need to machine up an aluminium wheel that sits in front or behind the crank pulley. In this wheel you need to mount the rare earth magnets. You will also need to make a bracket to hold your sensor to the wheel. Although this is more work you are able to run sequential injection for more power and fuel efficiency.

O2 sensor.
You may ned to upgrade your O2 sensor if you haven't already done so. Although not technically essential it will effect perfornance and economy if you don't have one.

Air sensor.
The 2TGEU does not come with an air sensor. You will need to have a mounting nut welded into your throttle body in which to house the sensor. I used the intercooler piping to mount mine.

Water sensor
The factory sensor can be reused.

Idle Air Control Valve (IACV)
An optional addition is to change the IACV to a more advanced one. Although not essential it will give the ECU more control over what is happening in the intake manifold. I used a Bosch IACV from a Hyundai Excel. Brand new about $400 or second hand for $50. Hoses will need to be bought as the Bosch IACV has larger inlet/outlets. This is controlled by using two of the PWM wires on the ECU.