Installing SC14 onto 2TG

The SC14 is a tight fit into the TA22 engine bay. In order to make it fit I needed to perform some panel beating of the wheel arch and move the brake lines. But I'm getting ahead of myself...

Mounting the SC to the engine.
Using The Tim Frost method of mounting the blower to the block via the AC bracket. The bracket did not need to be cut but you may need to apply light grinding to selected areas to ensure the SC and bracket mate up cleanly. You will know what, where and how much when you fit the two together. to mount the SC and bracket together I used an 180mm high-tensile bolt and a 12mm spacer to align the pulleys. You may find that the bracket needs to be drilled out a few mm to allow a larger diameter bolt to be mounted. For my SC I also needed to fabricate a shim for one of the mounting holes as the original one was perished beyond repair.

In order to secure the SC to the bracket I used a length of tube (200mm). This was flattened at both ends and holes drilled as bolt holes. This then mounts between one of the outlet posts and the bottom mounting bolt on the bracket. You can place a washer behind the bracket end of the pipe for fine adjustment of the height.

Lastly you will need to change the idler pulley racer that is on the air con bracket. You can use a ball raced idler pulley from a 3SGE. The idler requires a small amount of modifying in order to make it fit. Firstly the centre needed to be drilled out to accommodate the longer 2TG idler bolt. You will need to use the longer bolt as you will need to place a 12mm spacer behind the pulley to align it correctly with the SC and crank shaft pulley.

When mounted I found that the back of the SC was resting on the brake lines leading to the front drivers wheel. In order to mount the SC you will need new lines created to provide clearance for the SC. Drill a new hole approx 80mm back from the original hole and run the new lines to the brakes using this hole.

Preparing the SC
In order to fit the SC you will need to do some 'modifying' to the SC. The spare engine mounts will need to be ground off as these will spoil on the engine bay. You will also need to grind a few of the fins off the front of the SC in order to provide room for the timing chain tensioner. I found there was an aditional vacuum hose in the case of the SC that was fouling against the engine bay. I ground this off and used a rubber bung to block the hole. The outlet can be rotated 180 deg to allow for easier piping work to be installed.

SC Clutch.
As the SC14 electromagnetic clutch was removed from my supercharger and with original SC14 clutches being very rare, I was forced to find alternatives. Replacement pulleys can be purchased from the Pulley Bros (http://www.pulleybros.com.au/) but with heft price tag I looked for a cheaper option. This came in the form of the SC12 clutch. By placing a 12mm spacer the SC12 clutch will function properly.

Crank shaft:
In order to convert the 2TGEU to a multi-rib belt system several modifications need to be made. Firstly you will need to get your hands on a 4AGE crank pulley that can run two belts. This will mount onto the crankshaft of the 2TGEU easily. You will need to put a 22mm spacer behind the pulley in order to gain correct alignment to the alternator and water pump. I used a crank pulley from a 2T and chopped off the back 22mm to become the spacer.

Alternator:
Once again you can use a pulley from a 4AGE alternator on the 2TGEU. You will need to get the centre hole drilled to match the larger spline on the 2TGEU alternator. Otherwise the pulley lines up exactly like the original.

Water pump.
There may be some variation to how you mount up the water pump pulley as (according to my research) there are two types of water pumps on the 2TGEU. a long shaft and a short shaft. My 2TGEU had a long shaft so this method may not work if you have a short shaft water pump. No pulley I could find that would fit the bolt pattern would line up with the other pulley. In order to make the pulley line up I needed to use a pulley from a 4AFE (unfortunately I'm not sure if this is the exact engine this came off). By placing a spacer under the pulley you are able to bring the pulley back into alignment (you would not believe how long it took me to think around this problem and come up with a solution. I know not a very complex problem but it for some reason had me stumped).

Piping and intercooling.
There is much discussion as to whether to intercool a SC or not. My personal thoughts believe that it's better to do it now than later. When air is compressed it gets hot. A SC won't produce as much heat as a turbo but it will make heat.

I used a cooling pro intercooler (280 x 300 x 76mm) with both the inlet and outlet on the one side. This was then mounted in front of the radiator. Holes were cut in the front to allow the 3" pipes to channel into the engine bay. Then get your local performance or exhaust shop to make up some pipes for you. You will need to place a plumb back BOV into your setup to avoid destroying the throttle body under deceleration.

You now should have a nicely mounted SC14 in your car.

Wiring.
In order to control your SC, you will need to either connect it to your ECU or wire up a switch to turn the SC on and off. I opted to do both. In order to run a supercharger you can not use the original factory ECU. You will need to upgrade to an aftermarket ECU that is capable of running a SC. Bigger injectors - I used the 3SGTE top feed injector as they fit with no modification. You can not use these injectors with the factory ECU as the impedance is different. You can use the 3SGE injector plugs but will have to shave off one of the posts on the injector to make them fit.